Category Archives: Tokyo

Kamikaze Pilots and “The Wind Rises” – May 27, 2020

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By: Keenan Goo

Historical photo of a departing kamikaze plane

Wednesday’s class covered the sobering topic of kamikaze (Japanese for “divine wind”), the division of the Imperial Japanese Navy whose defining characteristic was the pilots’ death by collision during their attack. By this point in the course, our class was familiar with the ultranationalist mindset that enabled such an egregious war tactic. However, this was our class’s first time delving into the realities of Japanese veterans (particularly undeployed kamikaze pilots) after the end of World War II. Overnight, those signed up to be kamikaze pilots but were never deployed devolved from Japan’s greatest heroes to living manifestations of the nation’s failure. They were even branded with the title tokko kuzure (Japanese for “kamikaze degenerate”).

Whether because of this societal rejection or because of the devastation of their unbeatable nation’s defeat, many kamikaze veterans ended up turning to destructive lives of crime or ending their lives altogether. In one insightful discussion, we compared World War II veterans in Japan with Vietnam War veterans in the United States. In both cases, it took time before the nation’s view and treatment of veterans improved from one of total disgust and disrespect. One of the modes through which this perspective shifted was through media and museums. Noble depictions in films and museum exhibits of soldiers’ letters to loved ones helped to humanize these historical figures and elicit sympathy from the public. Understanding that both media and museums played an important role in public memory, our class analyzed the relationship between these two factors. Neva insightfully pointed out that a topic covered by both types of education is accessible to more audiences. Furthermore, media and museums can establish a mutualistic relationship where they can derive content from each other while also consolidating and sharing the audiences they appeal to. In an ever-increasingly technology-dependent society, it is not difficult to see how this relationship could continue to grow.

Promotional poster for Hayao Miyazaki’s film “The Wind Rises”

Between the relevant films “The Eternal Zero” and “The Wind Rises,” our class chose to watch the latter. “The Wind Rises” was written and directed by Hayao Miyazaki who is well known for his anime films including “My Neighbor Totoro” and “Spirited Away.” This film follows Jiro—the designer of the Mitsubishi A6M Zero fighter plane which was later used by kamikaze pilots. Despite being the main event happening at that time, we were shown nothing of the actual war. As a civilian and not a soldier, Jiro lives an arguably normal life of falling in love and pursuing his dream of making beautiful aircraft. The mantra of the film is repeated throughout the film, “The wind is rising! … We must try to live!” We see Miyazaki portray this in two ways. Firstly, Jiro chases his childhood dream of building planes despite his knowledge that they will likely be put to destructive use. Secondly, he courts and marries a girl diagnosed with tuberculosis with full knowledge of her imminent demise. Our class agreed that Miyazaki’s film focused on life in the midst of one of the greatest life-disruptors in history. This contrasted with our previous anime film, “Grave of the Fireflies,” which primarily focused on death. On the topic of comparing these two films, Sam made the observant comment that the age of the protagonist was significant in each film. Jiro in “The Wind Rises” grew to be a fully independent adult and member of society who was able to choose what he did with his life, including his contribution to the war effort. This is quite different from Seita in “Grave of the Fireflies” who remains a child with little to no control over his world or the war. Life simply happens to him and his sister. It is safe to say that both films are powerful in their own ways and offer different valid viewpoints in Japan during World War II.

Screenshot from the movie “The Wind Rises”

In regard to my research project, I feel that I am making satisfactory progress. Tokko kuzure was actually the topic I was originally planning to research. However, I feel that most of my questions were answered by our readings for this class on kamikaze pilots. Additionally, I developed an interest in what is now my new topic: The effect of war memory on the Japanese Self-Defense Forces (JSDF). I have already identified some primary and secondary sources I plan to analyze further that will provide valuable insight into JSDF public relations in light of the discredits done by the Imperial Japanese Army.

Farewell, Japan!

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By: Shon Xiao

Hi! I’m Shon, a rising junior at USC. It’s been such a good three weeks here in Japan with the USC and Meiji students, it’s hard to believe it came to an end. In all honesty, the fact that it’s over still has yet to hit me, even though I’m already out of Japan while I’m writing this.

Our last day in Japan was a bit hectic, needless to say, but was still a wonderful memory. Around noon, Joe and I went to TeamLab Borderless, a recently established digital art museum with marvelous displays that constantly change as the day goes on. The museum had several rooms, most of them hidden behind curtains that blend into the wall. The sheer scale of the displays in the museum made the experience ethereal.

Projectors cast glowing displays on makeshift lily pads at TeamLab.

Joe and I returned to Sakura Hotel with only a little time before the Farewell Party at Meiji University. All of us USC students gathered in the café at Sakura to write cards for the Meiji supporters. Thanks to Jessica and Thomas, who organized the card-writing and bought the materials, each pair of USC students wrote a letter for each of their Meiji supporters. Krystal and I wrote messages for our supporters Ara-chan, Yuto, and Mizuki. I was lucky enough to bond with these three over the course of the program, particularly during the Kiyosato retreat. I also wrote a few letters for other Meiji supporters I bonded with to show my thanks. With only ten or so minutes before the Farewell Party, I regret not being able to buy more gifts and write more letters for the Meiji students. I definitely left out a few people that I was lucky to meet.

Taryn and Kenny showing off their beautiful letters.

The Farewell Party truly made the trip feel like it had come full circle, being held in the 23rd floor of Liberty Tower. We cheered, much like on the first day of the program, and began feasting. After finishing our meals, we heard several speeches from faculty and students from both USC and Meiji, all expressing messages along the lines of ‘time flew by fast, but we will never forget this experience.’ I’m sure that many of us resonated with this message. It was strange acknowledging that the program was coming to an end and that we would soon split apart and go our separate ways.

Professor Katada giving a speech at the Farewell Party.

After the speeches, the USC students and Meiji supporters exchanged gifts. USC students gave letters while Meiji supporters gave shikishi, a small board filled with messages from each Meiji supporter. It was so moving to see the amount of effort they put into their present and all the sweet messages written on the board. I promised them I’d treasure the gift forever and place it on my desk.

Unfortunately, many Meiji supporters were unable to make the Farewell Party because they still had classes to attend. However, the majority of the Meiji supporters made it to the second party that Tatsuya so kindly organized for us. I was happy to be able to say a final goodbye to all the Meiji students. We sang, danced, and overall had a wonderful time. I was able to bond even more with a few supporters.

USC and Meiji students celebrating at the second party.

In the middle of the second party, I stepped out onto the smoking terrace to get some fresh air. Out of curiosity and whim, I followed the stairs up to the roof of the building. There was a view of a quiet neighborhood of Tokyo, and I could faintly hear the blaring music and singing voices from downstairs. Detached from the party scene, I was really able to take in the moment and say a final farewell to the city of Tokyo. Or, at least, a final farewell to the program. I spent my time up on the roof reflecting on my time here and the friends I’ve made, despite not expecting to. I came into this program with little to no expectations in fear of being disappointed, but EASC Japan has been more than I could have hoped for. I’ve come to Japan once before, but for the first time I became close friends with Japanese locals and learned about more niche Japanese minority groups. While it’s bittersweet to say goodbye to Japan, I know for sure that I am coming back to learn even more. Thank you, GEA Japan, for giving me this opportunity to experience Japan in a unique setting. Time flew by fast, but I will never forget this experience.

Night view of a quiet street in Tokyo. I’ll miss these clean streets and tall buildings.

Thank you, Japan!

LAST PUSH! 6/6/19

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By: Kenneth Wong

What a wild couple of days it has been! The last few weeks have flown by and this Maymester is coming to a close. This blog post is for June 6th, two days before the end of the program. I started off the morning by sleeping in until 9am! I feel like I am finally getting used to the time difference in this country just in time to fly back to the States. I started off the day singing in the shower so I know I’ve become too comfortable living here! Today, I went to a small cafe named Streamer in Naka-Meguro. The public transportation in this country is remarkably efficient and easy to use… after a few mishaps. Despite how directionally challenged I am known to be, I find that traveling around the big city has become a luxury rather than a nuisance.

Beautiful day in Naka-Meguro! Perfect weather for work in the morning and walking around at night.

Streamers Coffee Company was not meant to serve as a breakfast and hangout session. Three Global East Asia Scholars, myself included, worked diligently to finish the big final paper rough draft! After waking up at 9 o’clock, I had a little less than 24 hours to finish my draft and submit it to Professor Katada. The goal was to complete the rest of the project to free up the remainder of the day. After several drinks and one banana, I was able to finish! Even when faced with a deadline, I was still able to enjoy the aesthetic and beauty of working in Japan.

After the cafe visit came editing with my research partner, Thomas, back in Jimbocho. The majority of the day was set as the backdrop for students to finish working on their projects. We were able to finish the project relatively quickly, so I went to Shibuya later that night! Most of this trip has been traveling in large groups, so moving in a group size of 3 had its own challenges. The temperature was 87 degrees Fahrenheit, significantly warmer than the previous few days. This gave the night a fresh feeling and made night walking down the streets of Tokyo remarkably comfortable.

View of the famous Shibuya crossing from the train station! Much more hectic at night!

I no longer feel stressed roaming the streets of Tokyo! Being unable to speak the language has been an issue, but it has pushed me to come up with creative solutions to not being able to communicate effectively. I am effectively a foreigner in this country with a limited understanding of the Japanese language, but I have not let that hinder my enjoyment and workflow in this foreign land.

It has taken three weeks, but a rhythm has been very much established in my daily life in Japan. Whether it be onigiri from the local conbini (Convenience Store), Pocari Sweat from the vending machine, or going sightseeing in the busy streets of Shibuya, this research process has gone by in the blink of an eye. Spending the morning at the cafe was a much needed calming of the storm, but this last push towards the finish line has been sensational!

Sushi and the Korean Identity

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By: Thomas Kim

Hello there!

My name is Thomas, and I’m a rising senior majoring in International Relations with a minor in Environmental Studies. Welcome to the June 4th edition of What and Where Has Global East Asia: Japan Eaten and Been to Today! On today’s edition, we indulged our taste buds in sushi followed by a personally interesting visit to a Korean school.

After a late night of working on my final paper draft, I woke up, hungry and ready for sushi. I held out, mentally fortifying myself against the thoughts of warm toast and butter in the lobby. In what seems like an eternity later, we finally made it to a revolving sushi restaurant in Shibuya.

Heaven on a Conveyor Belt

Growing up, my grandparents owned a sushi restaurant, so to see my childhood favorite, tamago (egg) sushi, made every bite even more wonderful. The food exploded with flavor, and we spent a blissful hour there, stuffing our faces with wonderful sushi and our eyes with little trains delivering orders across the restaurant.

Tamago sushi

Marinated Salmon sushi

Now to the big event from today: our visit to a Korean school. For some background, the ethnic Korean population in Japan is referred to as the zainichi, and they are historically treated as second-class citizens within Japan, even today. They originally came to Japan for economic opportunity when Korea was a Japanese colony from 1910 to 1945, and now the zainichi population has been here for several generations. Post-World War II, the respective North and South Korean governments began funding schools for the Korean diaspora that continued to live in Japan. Fast forward to the present, and there are only 9 such Korean schools left around Japan. In this time frame, the North Korean government has financially supported many of these schools.

“Tokyo Korean Middle and High School”

Junior High and High School Building

As soon as we walk through the gate, the buildings loomed a little ominously. What could we expect from a school that has received financial support from the North Korean government? Our guide for the visit escorted us into a conference room where he introduced the school and some of its history. The school, Tokyo Korean Middle and High School, is the largest of the 9 Korean schools still in Japan, with about 113 middle school students and 358 high school students. Established on October 5, 1946, the school is celebrating its 73rd anniversary, and most of the students are 3rd or 4th generation zainichi. The students’ nationalities are split between South Korean, North Korean, and Japanese. Our guide mentioned that the school is not geared academically towards funneling its students to college; rather, it seemed like the school wanted to bring athletic prestige as he rattled off the rankings of its various sports teams. Officially, the school has 3 pillars: Intellect, Ethics, and Athletics, and its main goal is to nurture the spirit of Korean culture by learning its language and history. Students are not allowed to use Japanese while at school, except for the younger ones who enter because they would only know Japanese. The students also come from all over Tokyo; some take a 2.5 hour commute because they take it seriously on behalf of their parents’ passion for them to better understand their heritage.

Student art depicting a chima-jeogori

After this general orientation, he took us to various classrooms in the junior high (7th to 9th grade) and high school floors (10th to 12th grade). I do not know what I expected, but I did not expect the students to look at us in the hallway and start smiling and waving at us. It could have been the traditional chima-jeogori that female students were wearing as well as the more elaborate ones that female teachers were wearing. It could have been the portraits of deceased North Korean dictators Kim Il-Sung and Kim Jong-Il hanging up at the front of the high school classrooms, or the teachers speaking to their students with a clearly North Korean-dialect. This showed me that even though the teachers themselves are zainichi, the North Korean influence is visible. Interestingly, the junior high classrooms did not have the Kim portraits, and the junior high English classroom was full of laughter and fun. Keith, who wrote about our earlier visit to Miyajima Island, was brought up to the front for the students to practice a conversation with a native English speaker! But as we traveled between classrooms, there were signs everywhere saying the same thing: “우리말”, which basically translates to “Our language”. This refers to their policy of using only Korean at school.

“Let’s use Our Language very well!” aka: USE KOREAN

After touring several classrooms and many waves and smiles later, we returned to the conference room, where our guide brought 8 high school students. The 4 guys and 4 girls split the table, so that they were separated by gender. Then began an awkward attempt at questions and answers from between our two groups, as the language barrier made it so Kyohei, Professor Katada, and our guide had to translate and facilitate conversation. When asked about how they, as zainichi living in Japan, see the North vs South Korea issue, they stated that they feel sad because all three groups of Koreans are all one ethnic group. They have a strong desire for reunification and seek to help play a role in that future. Because my project with my partner, Kenny, focuses on the immigrants’ perspective on living in Japan in the context of discrimination and anti-immigrant sentiment, I asked how they felt about discrimination as zainichi. The captain of the girls’ basketball team said that when they play against Japanese schools, sometimes the Japanese teams are normal and amicable, while others could seem cautious and wary about them because of who they are. She later went on to say that once she revealed her zainichi heritage to her Japanese friends in her youth, some stayed friends with her while others became fearful and hesitant to talk to her after that. She even experienced some bullying from it before she entered the Korean school.

At the end of our visit, we took a group photo and gave our thank you’s for the opportunity to learn about the school and talk to the students. I personally could not articulate how I felt. Even while sitting in the hotel and writing this blog post, I cannot find the best ways to phrase this tension that the visit gave me. As a Korean American, whose grandma fled North Korea when the Korean War broke out, I was honestly never super patriotic about my Korean heritage. This was made worse by living in South Korea for four years, a place I do NOT miss. Yet as a Korean American who had lived in South Korea before, the heavy North Korean influence bothered me. However, what I saw and heard from the guide and students was a completely different worldview. If anything, my perspective of South Korea as the “right” side because of my past and my knowledge of South Korea as a key American ally felt wrong. There was no North vs South. It was all one Korean people, living in an unfortunate and difficult situation to where our people are pitted against one another. These students are roughly half North Korean and half South Korean by geographic heritage, yet they do not feed into that notion. They consider themselves Koreans, albeit Koreans living in Japan. For me, as someone who still struggles with his Korean American identity at times, seeing these Korean Japanese students confirm their identities as simply Korean astounded me. Additionally, seeing Kim Il-Sung and Kim Jong-Il’s portraits at the front of the classrooms made me feel conflicted. Some of these students are proud to have North Korean nationalities, but it seemed like they had no idea about the plight of the North Korean people under these past dictators and the current dictator. Yet they are not the cult-like devotee citizens that we in America are taught about.

“Put your hand to your heart!” A message on pride for your Korean heritage

If anything, this visit truly opened my eyes to another worldview. I was raised in a North vs South Korea ideology by my Korean relatives and the American education system. To see another view, one that speaks to the Korean people as a whole, held with such strong conviction shocked me. While I still need some time to consolidate my feelings, identity, and thoughts after this visit, I can say that this visit was one of the most impactful events thus far on my Global East Asia Japan journey, as it shook me to the core, rattling my perception of my identity as an ethnic Korean. But why else do we travel if not to challenge our own preconceptions on identity and worldviews?

A Day Roaming Around Tokyo

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By: Taryn Akiyoshi

The biggest Starbucks Reserve in the World!!

Today marks the second free day we have in Tokyo! I still haven’t adjusted to the time change so I wake up at 7:00 in the morning. On any regular day, waking up that early in the morning would have been met with fatigue; however, it works in my favor as I now have more time to explore the city. Having some work to do for class, three of the other Global East Asia Scholars and I went to the largest Starbucks Reserve in the world located a few stations away in Naka-Meguro. As I walked down the street I encountered a beautiful, four-story, wooden building, dressed with hanging plants and guarded by security. To my surprise, this is a Starbucks. Walking into the doors opened by the guards, I was in awe as giant coffee roasters embellished with copper cherry blossoms fill the air with the scent of coffee. Each floor of this Starbucks had a different theme. The first floor was for coffee, the second for tea, the third for cocktails, and the fourth for lounging. The pastries were gourmet, providing spectacular savory and sweet treats that were incomparable to those I received on my way to class each morning. Every area of the cafe was filled with the natural lighting provided by the large glass windows, making it a fantastic place to study. I ordered a Hazelnut Latte and a prosciutto croissant and was ready to finish my presentation.

After finishing some work, I went to Meguro station to meet my friend from USC who was studying abroad at Tokyo International University. I have not seen her in months, so we caught up as we walked along the Meguro River. The river was pristine and lined with vibrant trees. In addition to being a beautiful place to take an afternoon stroll, it was also accompanied by cute boutique stores and cafe shops. My friend and I biked down the riverfront, explored the city and bought several souvenirs to take home to LA.

Tonkatsu Tonki in Meguro

Working up an appetite from the day, we went to eat tonkatsu at Tonkatsu Tonki. I was amazed by the layout the moment I walked through the door. A carefully crafted wooden bar faced an open kitchen that allowed diners to experience the efficiency with which the restaurant was run. Each person had their own task. One chef would only take orders, another would only cut the tonkatsu. It amazed me to see how many of the restaurants in Japan do not serve many dishes but rather specialize in one. The tonkatsu was perfectly golden served with pickles, rice, miso soup, and cabbage salad. It was easily one of the best meals I had ever had. Despite having a full and satisfying meal, I made a stop at Family Mart before heading to my home away from home. Here I bought water and a waffle ice cream. The waffle was crunchy, lined with dark chocolate and filled with rich vanilla ice cream inside. Satisfied after dessert and tired after a long day, I went home to rest and plan my activities for the next day.

Exploring Tokyo

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By: Kayla Folts

It’s currently the second week of our stay in Japan and I can’t believe that our time here has flown by so fast!  After all of our exciting travels around Kyoto and Hiroshima, it’s great to be back at our home base in Tokyo near Meiji University. In addition to guest lectures by the Meiji University Professors, or Sensei, and doing research for all of our respective projects, sightseeing in such a vibrant city with my classmates is definitely a highlight of this trip. With so many different neighborhoods in Tokyo, there’s never a dull moment.

One of my favorite places that I have visited so far in Tokyo was Shibuya. The Meiji students unanimously agreed that this was their favorite area that was a “must see” when visiting Tokyo. Many of the students remarked that Shibuya has everything you could ask for and it is a great place to shop. Not only that but, upon doing some research before visiting, Shibuya is home to Shibuya crossing or “scramble”, which is the busiest intersection in the world and has been equated to be the Japanese “Times Square.”

On the first full day that we were in Tokyo, a group of my classmates and I decided to go visit Shibuya and tackle the daunting task of taking the Japanese metro system there. Because the metro is such a popular form of transportation, getting through the crowds and figuring out which line to get on when I don’t speak Japanese seemed like an impossible task but, luckily, we got to Shibuya without getting lost in Tokyo. Thankfully my classmates’ sense of direction is better than mine.

When we came out of the subway, we popped up right at the Shibuya crossing and I was immediately impressed and overwhelmed by all of the billboards and people concentrated in that one area. As we traveled around to different sections in Shibuya, the place was buzzing with people from all over the world shopping and taking in the culture. One of the shops by the scramble is 7 stories high and only sells Japanese brands. In addition to this, there were a lot of international brands that were familiar.

Shibuya Crossing

Harajuku is a section of Shibuya that is so large and has so many things to do that we decided to spend the entire next day and explore that area. This neighborhood is known for its young energy, street art, and fashion. Everywhere we looked, there were upcycled vintage stores and young Japanese people enjoying the atmosphere and shopping. A common theme in a lot of the stores was to have Lakers shirts and jerseys. Even in Japan, there is a little taste of home.

Harajuku at night

Throughout all of my travels through Tokyo, my research partner Momo and I have been trying all of the matcha tea and sweets we can find. Our project is a socioeconomic analysis of matcha’s globalization, so while going around and interviewing people for our project, we get to enjoy some tasty treats. I can’t wait to continue to explore the city for the next week and a half!

Arriving at Narita and Checking Into Sakura Hotel

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By: Alexander Maertens

We started off the day on a plane. As we approached Narita airport in Tokyo, it was raining and a thick fog obscured our vision so we did not even realize how close we were to the ground as we made our descent. We all landed safely, passed through immigration and customs, and collected our checked bags. The first thing everyone noticed when we got off the plane was the humidity! Even while still inside the air-conditioned airport we could feel the wave of hot, moist air cling to our skin. Still at Narita airport, we split up into groups for a moment and some people went to go exchange their American currency for Japanese Yen and others went to go retrieve SIM cards and pocket WiFi. After a long 11 hour flight, the GEA group was pretty exhausted but equally excited to finally be in Japan.

Next, we had to make our way from the airport to Sakura Hotel in Jimbocho. We carefully followed Professor Katada’s lead, filed in a single line like ducklings, as we walked to the train station. At this point we took an express train from the airport to Tokyo Station. Once again assuming the duckling formation, we made way through the Tokyo Metro’s labyrinth of underground twists and turns, crowds of people all on their commutes home, and many flights of stairs to get from train to train. In a remarkable collective effort, we all made it in one piece through the metro to finally arrive in Jimbocho.

Lobby of Sakura Hotel in Jimbocho

At the Sakura Hotel, we were able to meet our TA, Kyohei, and check in to our rooms. The Sakura Hotel was, in a word…cozy. The small rooms and narrow hallways were emblematic of Tokyo’s compact nature. The hotel lobby was nicely decorated with flags from all around the world and there were other gaikokujin (foreigners) sitting in the small cafeteria which created a sense of welcoming for our crew.

After receiving our room assignments from Kyohei, we all dropped off our luggage in our rooms and began thinking about the next challenge of the day: What are we going to eat!? When we landed it was around 4:30 p.m. and by now it was close to 9:00 p.m. We had been traveling for an entire day and everyone was tired and hungry. For our first meal in Japan, the choice was obvious to us all, Family Mart! Without even coordinating, we all ended up meeting at the convenience store just a block away from the Sakura Hotel. The selection and quality of food at the Family Mart is so much better than any convenience store in the United States. Some of the things we were able to get included, chicken skewers, bento boxes, onigiri (rice balls), and noodles. Everyone also made sure to stock up on water because even just the five-minute walk from the train station to the Sakura Hotel had us all dehydrated. As we prepare for our first full day in Japan tomorrow, keeping hydrated will certainly be one of our top priorities for staying energized.

One of our rooms in Sakura Hotel

After eating our food in the front cafeteria of the hotel and with jet lag already sinking in, we all retired to our rooms, took showers and went to sleep. Here’s to the start of our Japanese adventure!

Visiting Korean School – June 5, 2018

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By: Manuel Valdez

The third-to-last day of the GEA Japan Maymester was full of ups and downs, respectively. We started the day off by having breakfast to prepare for what would be an eye-opening visit to the Korean High School in Tokyo. I think I speak for everyone when I say that we were unsure of what to expect once we got there. Coming from the United States we knew very little about the lives of those who identify as North Korean or the country for that matter, other than what we are presented in our television screens. Needless to say, I was shocked and completely surprised at what we encountered at the school.

When we walked up to the gates, the first thing I realized was the sheer size of the campus. A field half the size of the campus was the first thing that caught my attention. Growing up in LAUSD schools, I am used to large campuses, however this school surpassed any I ever attended in cleanliness and order. As we walked into the main building we took our shoes off and slipped on some walking shoes that were provided for us. The second thing I noticed was the lack of students walking around, however I soon realized this was because classes were currently being held and students, for the most part, were in their seats. After waiting for the school Principal in a nicely furnished meeting room for a few minutes he came in to give us a short history of the school. Although he only spoke Japanese, Rio was able to elaborate and pass on what he was saying to the rest of us. At the end of his conversation he asked if anyone had any questions. I knew, as did we all, that this would be a once in a lifetime opportunity to ask questions very few people in the world could. Surely enough, many of us asked about things ranging from the school’s stance on political agendas, intramural sports, problems not being accredited as a school some years before, and even questions regarding the school’s current lawsuit against the Japanese government for exempting them from the universal access to High School policy that had been enacted allowing other schools, including international ones, to offer classes to those not willing to pay for it.

After answering our questions fully he took us on a tour of the classes. We visited at least four classes, English, Math, History, and a Japanese class, something I did not expect to find there. Despite the obvious pictures of North Korean leaders in the front of the classrooms these classes and more specifically, the students, were just as normal as any other their age. They would wave at us as we entered and ignore their teacher’s instructions because they were amazed and we were simply standing there. When Vincent, one of our classmates, was allowed to introduce himself he asked if any of them had any questions and like the teenagers they were they’d ask questions like, “Do you have a girlfriend/boyfriend?” and things of the sort while giggling among themselves.

Before leaving, we were presented to about nine other students back in the meeting room where we first had our conversations with the principal. There we asked questions ranging from what they thought of the U.S. to what they wanted to be when they grew up. We even shared some laughs or two when students from either group would answer with things like, “My favorite hobby is sleeping.” After about three hours at the school we returned to our hotels to prepare for our farewell reception at Meiji University.

I would have to admit that everything I encountered at this school surprised me, in a positive way. Instead of finding the die-hard devotees of the North Korean government I found a community of young people that were just interested in their ancestry and culture. Coming from a bi-cultural background myself I understood the significance of learning the history, language, and culture of your predecessors country while living in another. Although I cannot agree with the leaders of the North Korean government I sympathized with these students who simply wanted to keep their culture alive while doing their best to integrate into the mainstream society of the country they live in. I left this school with a much more positive outlook on the people who attend it and with a new hope for the future of peace between the countries of Korea and Japan.

Sakura and Jimbocho – May 30th 2018

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By: Ananya Anand

Today’s day started like the previous one. We woke up in our cozy rooms at Sakura Hotel and got breakfast before heading to the second lecture of our trip given by the very knowledgeable Professor Kato of Meiji University. We had previously learned about the depopulation issue in Japan but Kato Sensei went into depth about the different factors contributing to the fast decreasing replacement rate as well as delved into the adverse effects of a changing labor force participation rate. I found it extremely interesting to see the falling male work participation rate. From 2014, the 65.9 million labor force will decrease to about 58 million in 2030. He explained that this declining labor force will severely harm the economy, one that is already vulnerable to market pressures as we learned in Professor Takeda’s economy the day before.

Group photo after Kato Sensei’s lecture

It was interesting to learn about the government’s efforts towards attempting to increase female participation in the labor force. Since Japan has an aging population, the incorporation of elder people (65 years and above) into the labor force will also help strengthen economic growth, which may help offset increasing social expenditure due to aging. The M-shaped curve of female labor force participation, that professor Katada had mentioned during our classes back at USC, is symbolic of the lack of balance between work and child-rearing that women in Japan find difficult to establish. The absence of social institutions to support women and more importantly, the minimal mature consciousness of society towards this difficulty are some key themes that we have learned about and that Professor Kato reiterated on during his informative lecture. Some other topics he covered were the characteristics of the Japanese traditional employment system, non-regular workers engaged in the economy whose proportion increased significantly after the asset price bubble burst as well as foreign population and immigration issues.

After the lecture, Yuni and I met with our Meiji supporters – Tokio and Honoka – to discuss our forthcoming presentation at Yamanaka Lake. While they didn’t know much about the anime part of our research, they showed a keen interest in helping us investigate the treatment of the LGBT community in contemporary Japan. We gave them a list of interview questions we had prepared and they offered to circulate them to provide us with data to support our research. After wrapping up the meeting, Yuni and I took the Chuo line to Tokyo Station and headed to the famous Tokyo Ramen Street. The Tokyo Station itself is a work of art and the surrounding areas of Marunouchi were really fun to explore. It almost reminded me of midtown Manhattan, with its modern architecture and prevalent fashion and professionalism in every corner. We sat at a café and worked on our presentation for 3 hours followed by which we met Julie, Ipsa, Taylor, and Hannah for the famous delicacy – Omurice at Taimeiken. After that, we walked to Ginza and went to the Muji flagship store. Though I’m vegetarian and it has been hard on some days to find substantial meals, the food that I have encountered here in Tokyo has absolutely blown me away. Not to mention, my matcha obsession is being sufficed with every dessert shop Yuni and I manage to visit in between conducting field research at various different anime stores around Akihabara, Harajuku, and Ikebukuro.

Ramen lunch!

It’s an unsettling realization that we have already completed half of this program, but I’m sure I speak for all of us when I say that this is going to be one of the most memorable cultural exchanges any of us have taken part in.

The Big T: Scenery from Tokyo

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By: Vincent Jenkins

Skyscrapers, Trains, and People, oh my! A metropolitan characterized by its bustling neon filled streets, complicated metro system, and abundance of people, Tokyo is a place that is rivaled by no other.

While Tokyo is quite different to other metropolitan areas it is similar as well. Waking up to sounds of ambulances and trying not to get hit by a taxi are all familiar occurrences from my home of Los Angeles. With that being said Tokyo is different from Los Angeles in that Tokyo is not a city. By definition, Tokyo is a Japanese prefecture and within that prefecture are different wards and divisions such as Akihabara and Shibuya. Starting off my day meant walking to a part of Tokyo known as Ochanomizu (御茶ノ水) to travel to our host institution, Meiji University. With all the familiarity of home one can find a McDonalds, with better orange juice than you’ll get back in the States, teenagers walking with their faces in their phones, and a bicyclist who is late to work.

Growing up in a rather large city like Los Angeles, being in Tokyo seemed familiar and during my time here I have found myself feeling at home. With class at Meiji University over in the morning it was time to navigate Tokyo’s complicated metro system to get to Shinagawa (品川) for a meeting at Microsoft Japan. In terms of public transportation, Tokyo, and by extension Japan as a whole, has the entire Western Hemisphere beat in efficiency and reliability. When the schedule says a train is leaving at 9:33 that train is leaving at 9:33, with or without you. For someone who has never ridden on a large public transit system the task can be overwhelming but with English signs, a color coded line system, helpful station personnel, and an even more helpful transit app, navigating Tokyo public transit can be done. A transfer and a few stops later I found myself in the heart of Shinagawa’s business district, surrounded by business people during the lunch rush.

Credit: Vincent Jenkins | @albinosouffle | Ochanomizu, Japan

Finishing my meeting at Microsoft I was now free to go about my day. I could return to Meiji to work on research or find somewhere a little more scenic. While on the platform at Shinagawa station I made a last second decision and decided to hope on the train to Shibuya. Navigating through the construction within Shibuya station I was greeted by the famed Shibuya crossing. With billboards on billboards and lights that could be seen from space it was indeed a sight to behold. Surrounded by tourists and their cameras I spotted something that everyone on USC’s campus is all too familiar with – Starbucks. With its location in Shibuya this particular Starbucks was filled with people but a decent amount of said people were not there for Seattle’s best, but instead wanted a glimpse of the Shibuya Crossing Rush from a higher vantage point. Not able to get a glimpse of the rush from a window myself I settled with doing paperwork for the next few hours at a nearby viewless table. With paperwork done and exhaustion settling in, it was time to head back to Meiji University, but what awaited me was something that I hope to only experience once.

Credit: Vincent Jenkins | @albinosouffle | Shibuya, Tokyo, Japan

With the help of my Japan transit app I figured out the fastest way back to Meiji was via the Saikyo Line (埼京線) and to say this was a bad idea is an understatement. One of the more notable videos about Tokyo’s metro system consists of passengers being pushed into packed trains by station personnel hoping to keep everything on schedule. I can now say confidently first hand that I have experienced such an event and would not recommend it for the faint of heart. With no concept of personal space we were all packed into a steel tube on wheels until reaching our individual destinations. Assaulted by an assortment of smells, weird glares of trying to figure out who pushed who, and the occasional coughing riding the Saikyo Line during rush hour on a Tuesday is not a fun experience. Luckily for myself I only needed to ride said train for one stop and walking off of, or rather being pushed off of that train, was a relief I haven’t felt since finals season ended.

Credit: Vincent Jenkins | @albinosouffle | Shibuya, Tokyo, Japan

At the end of the day one thing cannot be disputed, Tokyo is a large metropolis. It has a population of over 37.8 million people, a transit system that, while sometimes cramp, is rivaled by no other, and more ramen places that one hopes to try in a lifetime. With its large population and humid weather it is a marvel of human ingenuity and persistence to survive the day to day of work and social life. Tokyo you are a crowded and complicated city like no other, but I wouldn’t have it any other way.