About five minutes after leaving Leon on my first day of pilgrimage, I can across a

message spray-painted on the wall of an abandoned house: “El Camino real es

internal [The real Camino is internal].”

Seeing this prompted me to be on the lookout for other graffiti messages during the rest

of my Camino. Scrawled on road signs, painted on rocks and road markers, spray-painted

onto walls—they were everywhere.

“Past and future are fruits of your mind. “

Most of these were short, encouraging, and vaguely spiritual; intended to bolster

morale or give advice. (For example, “Let the wisdom of uncertainty guide you;” “Your

blisters will heal, but the friends you make will last a lifetime;” or simply “keep going!”

There were a few explicitly religious messages, which increased in frequently as I

approached Santiago. These included specific Bible verses, prayers to St. James, and

advice to “Pray and Chill.” Then there were the more humorous pieces: for example,

“Don’t write on the road signs!” written on a road sign. Finally, there was artwork: the

rarest category, which ranged from a smiley-face spray-painted onto a stop sign to

elaborate murals along the walls. In Sarria, there was a lengthy painting of shells,

silhouetted pilgrims, scenery from the route, and faces of historically-significant

individuals from Camino history. As Sarria is one of the most common starting points for

pilgrims, this piece served to welcome them, impart the history of the Camino, and give

them a sneak preview of the road that awaits them.

Another mural (spotted in a small town near Ambasmestas) consisted of several

stylized figures in a row, painted to look as if they were walking the Camino with us. The

group was led by a traditionally-dressed pilgrim, followed by major gods and goddesses

from other religions. This seemed to be a commentary on how the Camino attracts

pilgrims from all faiths and creeds, and has perhaps transcended its religious roots to

become something more.

The Camino is famous for its “community”—much has been said about the

friendliness and camaraderie that develops between pilgrims as they walk. But graffiti

goes beyond that, and forms a bond between people who have never met and probably

never will. Those who leave these messages behind leave more than words—they leave

advice, spirituality, and, most importantly, a community, that unites pilgrims not just with

the artist/authors, but with each other. The Camino graffiti doesn’t just offer encouragement and insight, but lets us walk up to another pilgrim and start a conversation just by asking

“Did you see that funny graffiti back there”?

Whether it is a intriguing Knights Templar sword blessing or a Spanish Catholic prayer, we have experienced many rituals throughout our journey as pilgrims. Although the ones I will describe are pertaining to our path from León to Santiago, many of these rituals become more and more common along any path you take.

For example, in Hospital de Orbigo at the parochial pilgrim hostel, the blessing bestowed upon the pilgrims was a combination of a story and a life lesson from a Catholic priest. As we sat in his study, the priest stated that God already knew the reason for everyone’s pilgrimage even if the person herself didn’t know. This is a common Catholic theme, “God always knows what you need.” The tale of a male pilgrim who died recently was key to this story. He was a young walker who started the Camino to strengthen his body, a very sporty motive, and eventually discovered that his reason for walking was to serve the underserved communities. When finished, he became a follower and helper of Mother Teresa. He was the “golden boy” and the picture of a perfect pilgrim from the eyes of the church. Metaphorically, he was “bit by the dog” of faith along the Camino. He died suddenly on a return trip from Calcutta when he participated in the Camino but was hit by a train en route. He became a symbol to this priest of the power of God and the Camino.

Parish priest explaining the story of a pilgrim victim.

Some donativos (shops run on donation) also offered us spiritual pilgrim rituals for protection. Tomás for instance, offers pilgrims a type of performance involving the use of energies, believing some places along the French route rise and intermix with the energy of the earth. He prays to St. Michael, the Archangel, and tells those who are curious enough to enter his decorated little cottage, the tales of miraculous events that happened to people all over the world when they were protected by this saint. They involve car crashes with no injuries, and cures without treatment. His ritual specifically involved circling around us with a sword (symbol of the Knights’ Templar) while chanting in Spanish. Certainly, a different experience than the devotional pilgrim Catholic blessing.

Nonetheless, one of the most historically significant rituals is the Catholic pilgrim blessing after a mass. Interestingly, the perspective of the Catholic Church towards pilgrims went from judgement and penance, in times when walking was seen as punishment for transgressions, to a commercialized venture. Nowadays, mass blessings are open and involve praying the Our Father and a Benediction over those who have the necessary perseverance to walk.

Each blessing is rich in tradition and culture and each serves as part of a placebo effect that, if you let it, will accompany you throughout your journey. Whatever it is that protects us, we, as pilgrims, will gladly accept what we can get.

Five months ago, if you told me I would be backpacking across northern Spain, I wouldn’t have believed you. However, I came across multiple flyers highlighting the Anthropology 301 class and I was immediately intrigued. I came to learn that the Camino is an historically religious walk for Roman Catholic pilgrims who go to push the limits of their mental and physical abilities. The dish of choice on the Camino was anything with pork – and if it wasn’t pork some other type of meat or fish would be involved. How was a vegetarian, Hindu to find her place on the Camino?

After attending a variety of masses, vespers and other religious events I was struck by the similarities between Catholicism and Hinduism. From the ornate figures placed in the front of the Chapel to the same prayers preached every night at mass – a direct similarity to aartis done in temples every night – I came to realize the importance of understanding another religion in order to better understand my own. Throughout my journey on the Camino, I began to be more receptive to the underlying similarities that exist between all human beings. The conversations I was so fortunate to have opened my eyes to the power of devotion and the beauty of faith. The complementary facets of Catholicism and Hinduism that became clear to me as I observed others on the Camino gave me a deeper understanding of what it means to be religious. As I became more comfortable being a Hindu on the Camino, I was still struggling to be a vegetarian – a characteristic preached by Hinduism. Just when I thought I had one too many tortilla Españolas,

Spanish Tortilla (egg and potato omelette)

I came across a map highlighting all the albergues and restaurants that specialize in vegetarian cuisine – a surprisingly extensive list where I know my only options wouldn’t be a +“bocadillo con queso” or an “ensalada mixta sin atun.”

Mixed salad with lettuce, tomato, carrot, onion and sometimes tuna.

I came to learn that the Camino has a place for everyone. It cares not about your race, ethnicity, religion, gender or dietary restrictions. The Camino becomes a place, in which even a vegetarian, Hindu, can work her way into Santiago.