I’ve dreamed of leaving the US, but I’d be lying if I said I didn’t have reservations about how blackness is received in Europe. While still a minority group, African American communities can thrive and function independently in the United States. African American culture diverged from American mainstream as a whole, creating a space in America where blacks support each other and rewrite generalized perceptions of blackness. The black pride that we are able to engage in within the States does not seem to exist along the Camino de Santiago.

I was shocked to see the amount of diversity when arriving to Lisbon. Specifically there was a higher African presence than I expected. The U.S. seems to have a greater number of biracial or mixed blacks, but Lisbon presented many of African descent who migrated and made Lisbon their home. I anticipated being one of the only darker skinned individuals upon my arrival in Portugal, and I found myself falling into my African American traditions that do not seem to be present on the Camino.

The amount of black bodies moved me to give the traditional head nod African Americans generally exchange with each other– this cultural norm is taught since childhood and creates solidarity between fellow brothers and sisters. In Lisbon my nod was not returned, but instead I received stares or the other party turned their eyes away from me. Despite there being a clear community of African individuals, there does not seem to be the camaraderie I am familiar with back home.

The prevalence of black faces fades as one moves from the city of Lisbon and into smaller villages along the Portuguese route. This shift was not just after departing Lisbon, but from major city to rural town. There are clear effects with the decline in overall diversity. While my exchange with locals of the usual “Buenos días” was returned, this was not always the case. Older individuals would stare after my greeting, but when other pilgrims behind me did the same, their salutation was returned. The definition of diversity changes from person to person and across cultures. This makes it challenging to discuss and define blackness in racially homogenous places, even on the multicultural Camino. This is evident in that the general population has little exposure to groups classified as other or a minority.

A married couple from South Africa had explained that they love the diversity of their home country and “would not want to live anywhere else”. The husband even described a time when he went to Lithuania, where everyone had blue eyes and blond hair–that was all he saw and he did not like it. This was an intriguing comment, considering the fact that he was a white South African. I think people are more comfortable with what they have been exposed to. We are accustomed to our own environments. When describing the demographics of South Africa (specifically the Cape Town area) blacks were substantially more prevalent, followed by “white people, Indians, brown people and Asians.” This probably explains his preference for a multicultural community rather than homogeneous, even with his own ingroup.

Exposure seems to be key in the different ways one approach is a black individual. The famous homestay of Fernanda’s provided an interesting encounter that would be considered quite inappropriate in the US. I was seated next to another student from the course who also has a darker complexion. The homeowner asked if we were brother and sister, although we had told her upon our arrival hours earlier that we were with the class group. At home in the US, most African-American individuals would probably feel out rage and as if they were being lumped together simply by the color of their skin. I realize that this woman has had a little experience with people of color, but this is still an issue that is probably present in many other places.

A couple in their mid to late 20s described an island off of France named La Routine. The man described the way that Christians, Jews and Muslims lived together in this place in harmony. Religion was not the only way people mixed, but racially as well. His voice rose with enthusiasm and a hint of shock when saying that there we girls with “dark skin, blond, curly hair and blue eyes”. The mere way he told this specific group to me revealed that he probably has little exposure to multiethnic individuals at home. This became more clear as our conversations diverged somehow to the topic of skin color and temperature preference. I was bundled up in all the layers I brought for the trip, while a fellow classmate (also of darker complexion) wore shorts. The woman commented that my coldness made sense because people with dark skin should like hotter weather as opposed to the cold.

On the other end of the spectrum it seems like steps are being made to create a more inclusive environment in Portugal. A religious museum in Fátima had a nativity scene with black skinned figurines and Fernanda’s house also had a black Virgin Mary. Holy figures and scenes often depict individuals with light skin, hair and eyes. This is something that is discussed even within the U.S. both in and outside of the religious sphere. While no one knows exactly what the Madonna or Christ looked like, it is the general norm to see them in a way that represents the racial majority. The black figures were small and definitely not as prevalent, but it may be a sign of a growing knowledge of blackness along the Camino.

Portuguese and Spanish individuals seem to have less exposure to blackness than Americans in the United States, but inclusive efforts such as the one mentioned above may allow more black individuals to feel comfortable and accepted when traveling the world. The more African Americans move through different cultures, the more they can change stereotypes as they have in the U.S. This benefits not only black individuals, but the people in these foreign countries as they gain more knowledge about histories and cultures they would not otherwise be exposed to.