About erin moore

Erin Moore is an Associate Professor of Teaching in the USC Dornsife Department of Anthropology and a lawyer. She conducts research in Rajasthan, India on rural women and the law. For the last five years she has conducted an ethnographic field school on Spiritist healing in Brazil.

Maymester 2018 to Portugal

We are getting ready for the first ever class to hike the Camino de Santiago in Portugal, Camino Portuguese.

Maymester Class 2018 hiking 7.5 miles to Henninger flats in Altadena.  Trying out the new boots.

Maymester Class 2018 hiking 7.5 miles to Henninger flats in Altadena. Trying out the new boots.

Our class will begin in Lisbon, take the train to Porto and walk 120 miles to Santiago and beyond to the End of the World (Finesterre, Spain).  First we have monthly classes, quizzes, exams, fieldtrips to hike and study alternative religious practices, and finally a May 18 departure.

Chaos in Venezuela brings a Miracle to the Camino by Emily Kang

Our first day in Madrid we were the stereotypical tourists taking pictures of everything that caught our attention. One thing that nobody could miss that day was a large demonstration of people marching down the street. Signs read “justicia” or “democracia” but I couldn’t tell who these passionate calls were aimed toward. I then read the banner that said “Venezuela, the world hears you.”

Madrid protest

Madrid protest

This protest was a stand against the oppressive Venezuelan dictator Hugo Chavez, a name I recognized but knew little about. Like all the other tourists around me, I took a video and moved on. It wasn’t until I began the Camino that those words and cries for help would ring so loudly.

Our second day on the Camino, I was a bit disappointed that I hadn’t met many pilgrims who had a harrowing story like the ones I had read about or seen in movies, but I actually heard my first “pilgrim story” at our albergue. The moment I stepped into Albergue San Miguel, I felt welcomed.  We were greeted with a smile worn by the man we all would get to know. IMG_2565Arturo, the owner of the quaint and colorful albergue, offered us a tour, gave us canvases to paint on, and even greeted me in Korean. He epitomizes the community spirit of the Camino and his remarkable story is an example of why I wanted to participate in this trip.
Later that day when I went to look at the souvenirs in the display case, he patiently waited while we tried on different bracelets, and I noticed a picture of him and his family in front of the cathedral in Santiago. He openly answered my questions and explained how he got to where he is today. He participated in the Camino twice and the second time he and his wife decided to stay and buy an albergue that was for sale two years ago. “It was a miracle,” he said. I agreed because I admired the idea of rebuilding a life somewhere new, but Arturo really had no choice since he had to flee the troubling conditions in his native country of Venezuela. He was able to stay in Spain because his wife is a member of the European Union.

Arturo talks to the students about the repression in Venezuela.

Arturo talks to the students about the repression in Venezuela.

Later that night, Arturo was kind enough to tell our group his story and he gave us some background about the political climate. In Venezuela, a dictator has driven the country into the ground and people struggle to get by.  His mother and son still live there and he offers as much help as he can by sending basic goods like toilet paper every few months. He said he is so lucky and I was in awe of how his life revolves around providing for his family and giving to other pilgrims.
As we left the albergue, Arturo was there to send us off with that same smile and warm demeanor. I told him I would pray for his family in Venezuela and thanked him for his hospitality. I left behind my painting, an attempted recreation of the Albergue San Miguel, Arturo’s own miracle and my favorite memory from this trip.

Arturo is far left and the author Emily is fourth from left.

Arturo is far left and the author Emily is fourth from left.

Drawing my Camino by Olivia Indik

IMG_1154I have always been amazed by the beauty of the natural world. To me, there are different kinds of nature: plants free to grow, animals free to roam, even people with a cup of coffee in a cafe.
I love drawing, and when I am inspired by a piece of the natural world, I see lines forming around it, an outline for what I plan to draw when I take out my sketchbook. Drawing makes me feel serene, at peace…IMG_1155
Here is a story of one of my favorite drawings: I met a man named Lionel and his wife Joyce from Australia early on in the Camino. Lionel and Joyce are seventy years old and will have been married for 50 years come fall. They have done the Camino together three times, and with their seven ultra marathon running kids all grown up, have traveled all over the world. Lionel greeted everyone he passed, and was a delight to have a conversation with. I could see the pen lines forming around him as we spoke, and that night I attempted to draw his likeness. The picture I drew ended up looking nothing like him, but I thought I was able to capture his character. After arriving at an albergue right below the path of the Camino, I heard the click of walking sticks as well as Lionel’s booming Australian accent getting closer. I met him at the top of the hill to present him with the torn out page of my journal that had his drawing as well as the notes on his story. He was very pleased!IMG_1013
I tried to draw my way through the Camino, taking mental pictures of anything I found interesting or inspiring, but soon the strain of the day got to me, and the drawings became fewer and fewer.
A rainy day on the Camino bled through my journal and started to blur the lines of some of the drawings. Blues and purples from the stamps of the albergues we stayed at have mixed into the black pen. It actually doesn’t bother me at all, since I like the worn effect it gives my writing, and I see nature in the imperfections.

Camino Graffiti by Antonio Ingravallo

foto 1About five minutes after leaving Leon on my first day of pilgrimage, I can across a

message spray-painted on the wall of an abandoned house: “El Camino real es

internal [The real Camino is internal].”

Seeing this prompted me to be on the lookout for other graffiti messages during the rest

of my Camino. Scrawled on road signs, painted on rocks and road markers, spray-painted

onto walls—they were everywhere.

"Past and future are fruits of your mind. "

“Past and future are fruits of your mind. “

Most of these were short, encouraging, and vaguely spiritual; intended to bolster

morale or give advice. (For example, “Let the wisdom of uncertainty guide you;” “Your

blisters will heal, but the friends you make will last a lifetime;” or simply “keep going!”

There were a few explicitly religious messages, which increased in frequently as I

approached Santiago. These included specific Bible verses, prayers to St. James, and

advice to “Pray and Chill.” Then there were the more humorous pieces: for example,

“Don’t write on the road signs!” written on a road sign. Finally, there was artwork: the

rarest category, which ranged from a smiley-face spray-painted onto a stop sign to

elaborate murals along the walls. In Sarria, there was a lengthy painting of shells,

silhouetted pilgrims, scenery from the route, and faces of historically-significant

individuals from Camino history. As Sarria is one of the most common starting points for

pilgrims, this piece served to welcome them, impart the history of the Camino, and give

them a sneak preview of the road that awaits them.foto 3

Another mural (spotted in a small town near Ambasmestas) consisted of several

stylized figures in a row, painted to look as if they were walking the Camino with us. The

group was led by a traditionally-dressed pilgrim, followed by major gods and goddesses

from other religions. This seemed to be a commentary on how the Camino attracts

pilgrims from all faiths and creeds, and has perhaps transcended its religious roots to

become something more.Foto 4

The Camino is famous for its “community”—much has been said about the

friendliness and camaraderie that develops between pilgrims as they walk. But graffiti

goes beyond that, and forms a bond between people who have never met and probably

never will. Those who leave these messages behind leave more than words—they leave

advice, spirituality, and, most importantly, a community, that unites pilgrims not just with

the artist/authors, but with each other. The Camino graffiti doesn’t just offer encouragement and insight, but lets us walk up to another pilgrim and start a conversation just by asking

“Did you see that funny graffiti back there”?Foto5

Donativos: The Heart of Camino Generosity, by Sophie Wennemann

The Camino de Santiago is known for its spirit of friendliness, generosity, and sharing. Donativos, stops along the route that offer pilgrims some sort of goods, service, or place of rest for a small donation, embody these values and help give the Camino this reputation. In order to exist, donativos rely on generosity from pilgrims and donativo owners alike. The owners give up their time and effort to create a restful environment for pilgrims. However, in return, pilgrims are encouraged to donate a sum of money at their own discretion as recompense for what they have taken and support for future pilgrims passing through. Unlike a shop or supermarket, this money comes from a place of generosity instead of necessity, furthering the giving spirit and camaraderie that pilgrims are already experiencing throughout their journey. 

Donativos come in all shapes and sizes and can offer anything from food and drink to a place to sleep for the night. On the way from Rabanal to Molinaseca, we passed a donativo that was simply a very small trolley on the side of the dirt path containing juice boxes and muesli bars. IMG_7480There was no one actively tending to the donativo, only signs with directions and inspirational quotes. On the other hand, some very active owners make their donativos their livelihoods. On the road from Hospital de Orbigo to Astorga, we came across a donativo deep in the hills owned by a man named David.

David talking to a student

David talking to a student

He had lived there for 8 years tending to the donativo attached to his house. It was overflowing with fresh fruits, cakes, cookies, drinks, and peanut butter, which he was very proud to tell all of the Americans.

One of the most elaborate donativos I have seen along the Camino, however, was an entire Albergue funded by the generosity of pilgrims. The Albergue Guacelmo in Rabanal asked for a donation of whatever you could or wanted to give in exchange for clean beds, warm water, and tea and cookies in the evening. 

(David’s Donativo)

Despite the lack of assurance that all of their goods and services will be fully reimbursed, donativos continue to be an example of altruism and integrity for travelers along the Camino. As many lost pilgrims search for themselves on the journey to Santiago, they can always be certain to find two things at each donativo: a generous heart and a full stomach. 

Camino Stamps: a reminder of people and places, by Taylor Seamans

Along the Camino, we’ve been collecting stamps in our pilgrim credential. You can get them at your albergue, at certain cafés, donativos, churches, and other stops along the way. The true purpose of the stamps is to document where you’ve travelled, a form of proof that you walked the distance you’ve claimed to. However, businesses like café bars also offer stamps to pilgrims, likely with the thought in mind that more pilgrims will stop to spend money if a stamp is available. Some people want to get a stamp at every place they pass, while others only want one from places where they’ve truly spent time. The stamps from each stop are unique, and while collectively, they tell a lot about where you’ve been, individually they say a lot about who you met there.

Author's Camino credential or passport

Author’s Camino credential or passport


On our third day, I got a red heart stamp with the words “Casa de los Dioses” from a donativo offering plates of fresh cut fruit, bread, and drinks. It was run by a man named Davíd who greeted everyone with a huge smile and insisted people take as much as they want without donating. His skin was the kind of reddish tan people have from day after day in the sun. This served to show how long he’s dedicated himself to the Camino and those who walk it.

David's stamp

David’s stamp

His welcoming personality made it easy for pilgrims stopped there to feel a part of this community that he’s created. His stamp is an instant reminder to me of him and his love for the Camino and the people on it.

A stamp I got at lunch towards the end of my Camino had a line of ants on itIMG_2575, and it was explained that the pilgrims on the Camino are a bit like ants walking in a line. There are tons of people on the Camino, and part of who you meet just depends on the timing of where you start walking and where you stop.
FullSizeRender-2This morning I got a stamp from a café where I ate breakfast. The stamp itself was plain, just advertising the name of the place, “Taberna Casanova,” and the phone number. But despite this, it will always remind me of the breakfast I had with a woman named Daniela. She explained to me her motivation for the Camino, that she needed to become more of an adult, to push herself physically and mentally. But beyond that, she said that part of the Camino and of life in general is deciding who you spend your time with and who brings you closer to where you want to be– whether that be spiritually or with your career or whatever values you have. We spent the rest of the day walking together, and had I not stopped at this café we may have never met.
So, the Camino, of course, is a journey of distance and of places but what I’ve learned more than I expected is that the experience is really in the people, and the stamps from each place remind me of the people I’ve met there. So this is why I prefer just to get the stamps at the places I truly stop. When I look at my credential, I see the stamps, and through the stamps I see the people.

Politics Persist, Even on the Camino by Allie Framiglietti

As I’ve had more and more opportunities to travel, I have become increasingly aware of the stereotypes and connotations that accompany my American heritage. When considering recent political events, it is unsurprising that many members of the global population think the United States is intrinsically linked with our newly elected president: Donald Trump. Indeed, he seems an impossible man to outrun, for even on the Camino his reputation follows us American citizens as relentlessly as our shadow.

The author interviewing along the Camino in Galicia.

The author interviewing along the Camino in Galicia.

Of course, the cursory introductions that are almost obligatory on the Camino include the inevitable “So, where are you from?” On many occasions, in response to my cheerful “the United States,” the first words that crossed my interviewer’s lips were “ah, Trump,” frequently accompanied by an understanding little smile. Truly, the subject is almost entirely unavoidable. Even those of us who do not wish to discuss politics with strangers have suffered through at least a few uncomfortable conversations of this nature.
While I don’t pretend that the relatively diverse population present on the Camino represents a statistically random sample, I believe that my recent conversations regarding President Trump demonstrate the mistrust and uncertainty felt by many of our global allies. Indeed, not a single person I spoke to expressed any kind of support for Trump or his policies; their sentiments ranged anywhere from general indifference to vehement loathing.
I think a conversation I had with an older French woman to be particularly pertinent to this discussion. What was memorable about this interview was not what was said, but what was meant. This woman spoke perhaps ten words of English, and I speak even less French. For this reason, our conversation predominately consisted of smiles and wild hand gestures. Of course, at some point within the duration of the interaction she said the magic word––Trump––accompanied by fervent head shaking and mock gagging noises. Even without words, I was at no loss to how she felt about the new American president.download
Some Camino-goers expressed their feelings more concisely. A particularly colorful Irish couple spoke of their avid dislike of Trump for over an hour, at one point calling him “a bit cracked.” Indeed, the husband went on to describe a study done by some psychologist who apparently claims that Trump exhibits behavior characteristic of Alzheimer’s disease. While I personally suspect that insatiable narcissism is a more likely cause of the President’s erratic decisions than  a degenerative cognitive condition, such a comment goes to show the extent to which many of our international fellows resent Trump. This fact aside, I feel––and I’m sure my classmates would agree––that despite the less than favorable political conditions of the US, we have been treated with friendly respect by practically everyone on the Camino. For me, such a discovery only accentuates the fact that Donald Trump fails to understand a fundamental lesson that is continually reenforced by communal places like the Camino: American citizenship does not guarantee superiority. Individual worth is not dependent upon nationality, race, gender, or religion. As human beings who each possess unique hopes, memories, and beliefs, we must treat each other with the according love and respect. We owe the world that much.

The Aura of Protection on the path to Santiago by Diana Acosta-Valle

Whether it is a intriguing Knights Templar sword blessing or a Spanish Catholic prayer, we have experienced many rituals throughout our journey as pilgrims. Although the ones I will describe are pertaining to our path from León to Santiago, many of these rituals become more and more common along any path you take.

For example, in Hospital de Orbigo at the parochial pilgrim hostel, the blessing bestowed upon the pilgrims was a combination of a story and a life lesson from a Catholic priest. As we sat in his study, the priest stated that God already knew the reason for everyone’s pilgrimage even if the person herself didn’t know. This is a common Catholic theme, “God always knows what you need.” The tale of a male pilgrim who died recently was key to this story. He was a young walker who started the Camino to strengthen his body, a very sporty motive, and eventually discovered that his reason for walking was to serve the underserved communities. When finished, he became a follower and helper of Mother Teresa. He was the “golden boy” and the picture of a perfect pilgrim from the eyes of the church. Metaphorically, he was “bit by the dog” of faith along the Camino. He died suddenly on a return trip from Calcutta when he participated in the Camino but was hit by a train en route. He became a symbol to this priest of the power of God and the Camino.

Parish priest explaining the story of a pilgrim victim.

Parish priest explaining the story of a pilgrim victim.

Some donativos (shops run on donation) also offered us spiritual pilgrim rituals for protection. Tomás for instance, offers pilgrims a type of performance involving the use of energies, believing some places along the French route rise and intermix with the energy of the earth. He prays to St. Michael, the Archangel, and tells those who are curious enough to enter his decorated little cottage, the tales of miraculous events that happened to people all over the world when they were protected by this saint. They involve car crashes with no injuries, and cures without treatment. His ritual specifically involvIMG_7498ed circling around us with a sword (symbol of the Knights’ Templar) while chanting in Spanish. Certainly, a different experience than the devotional pilgrim Catholic blessing.

Nonetheless, one of the most historically significant rituals is the Catholic pilgrim blessing after a mass. Interestingly, the perspective of the Catholic Church towards pilgrims went from judgement and penance, in times when walking was seen as punishment for transgressions, to a commercialized venture. Nowadays, mass blessings are open and involve praying the Our Father and a Benediction over those who have the necessary perseverance to walk.

Each blessing is rich in tradition and culture and each serves as part of a placebo effect that, if you let it, will accompany you throughout your journey. Whatever it is that proteIMG_7839cts us, we, as pilgrims, will gladly accept what we can get.



Hindu and Vegetarian on the Camino de Santiago by Ema Shah

Five months ago, if you told me I would be backpacking across northern Spain, I wouldn’t have believed you. However, I came across multiple flyers highlighting the Anthropology 301 class and I was immediately intrigued. I came to learn that the Camino is an historically religious walk for Roman Catholic pilgrims who go to push the limits of their mental and physical abilities. The dish of choice on the Camino was anything with pork – and if it wasn’t pork some other type of meat or fish would be involved. How was a vegetarian, Hindu to find her place on the Camino?

After attending a variety of masses, vespers and other religious events I was struck by the similarities between Catholicism and Hinduism. From the ornate figures placed in the front of the Chapel to the same prayers preached every night at mass – a direct similarity to aartis done in temples every night – I came to realize the importance of understanding another religion in order to better understand my own. Throughout my journey on the Camino, I began to be more receptive to the underlying similarities that exist between all human beings. The conversations I was so fortunate to have opened my eyes to the power of devotion and the beauty of faith. The complementary facets of Catholicism and Hinduism that became clear to me as I observed others on the Camino gave me a deeper understanding of what it means to be religious. As I became more comfortable being a Hindu on the Camino, I was still struggling to be a vegetarian – a characteristic preached by Hinduism. Just when I thought I had one too many tortilla Españolas,

Spanish Tortilla (egg and potato omlette)

Spanish Tortilla (egg and potato omelette)

I came across a mapimage1 highlighting all the albergues and restaurants that specialize in vegetarian cuisine – a surprisingly extensive list where I know my only options wouldn’t be a +“bocadillo con queso” or an “ensalada mixta sin atun.”

Mixed salad with lettuce, tomato, carrot, onion and sometimes tuna.

Mixed salad with lettuce, tomato, carrot, onion and sometimes tuna.




















I came to learn that the Camino has a place for everyone. It cares not about your race, ethnicity, religion, gender or dietary restrictions. The Camino becomes a place, in which even a vegetarian, Hindu, can work her way into Santiago.